Three out of Four

I surfed three days out of four from Saturday to Tuesday. A pretty big south by southwest swell came in and M., his friend Kevin, and I decided to take advantage of it. We started off at the south jetty of Venice and it didn't look all that impressive. Kevin has a big truck so we put our surfboards into it and headed up to Sunset Point.

I should probably mention that prior to this I bought a new old board from District where I got my bike rack. The board cost me 99 dollars. You can't really beat that. She's not the prettiest board- closer to yellow than to white, but she certainly looks like she can get the job done. She's only 6 foot (maybe 5'11). We'll have to see if I can manage that.

Back to the beach..

After a long time of walking to Kevin's car and locking our bikes we headed out to Sunset Pointe. The waves were pretty darn big-- 4-6 feet from time to time.

So... as I expected.. it was pretty difficult to catch waves with the little thing. Conditions were very nice, though. I think I could just about get on a knee. It was embarrassing. It also had to do with the weak wax job on the board. I normally put a ton of wax on the board. I only had one layer on this board.

Sunday--
We rode out on our bikes. M. and I took our bikes (M. towing his 10 foot board with a rickshaw contraption and me with a sort of side-car/catamaran type of mechanism for my 6 footer) ALL the way out to Sunset. It took us about an hour. The ride was pretty fun, though. I felt bad for M. He can't really go to the beach without drinking. He took out two bottles of malt liquor and polished them off in the alley on our way from Venice to Sunset. Needless to say he had a horrid time trying to catch waves given the size of the buggers. The waves were pretty mountainous. I was able to do MUCH better-- catching at least 3. (But man do I have to work on my 'S' shapes. That's basically my project over the next two months.

One guy there, called Brendan really tore it up. See his photo below.

There were a lot of beginners there, but it wasn't until yesterday that I realized what a gift that was. The beginners may be in the way, but at leas they don't take all the waves!

Which leads us to yesterday- Tuesday

Was supposed to meet up with M.'s cousin Hassan. We communicated via facebook, but we don't have each other's numbers. He wanted to go up to a place called Heavens. It's WAAAAY up north, just shy of the Ventura County line. Waves were a very good size and conditions were perfect other than the frigid water. I only had my wetsuit so I just couldn't stay in long enough to get acclimated to the water.

I went up with Luisa who I mentioned in my first post I believe. She was looking very tasty and we had some fun playing portable foosball. See photos below. It was still a very nice day. As you can imagine, I am not looking forward to getting back to work.

Take care now!